Over high mountains with a camper is not obvious, yet most Alpencols are now ridable for motorhomes, even for my old Hymer. Monday, June 21. Chantemerle. Morning in full sun neglorie. What else is that last night on the col du Lautaret, where fog, rain and even snow drove me to lower places. Grenoble - Col Izoard - Chateau Queyras I drive to Grenoble and from there to the Col d'Izoard, the famous hill from the Tour. Well rideable for motorhomes and many climbed by cyclists. Just before the col there is a café restaurant, another leftover from the resting place of Napoleon. It therefore calls refuge Napoleon. Unbelievable, where that human has crossed the Alps everywhere! On the hill and in the descent we get a completely different landscape, rocks in yellow-brown rock that easily erodes. La Casse déserte calls this spectacular stone wasteland. Through this crumbling rock we get a narrower, whimsical descent with more bends, but spectacularly beautiful. I'll stop in a forbidden place to take some pictures. Lower we end up in the lush mountain meadows, too I have to restrain myself in order not to stop every bit. You now arrive in the valley of the Guil at Chateau-Queyras, the immense fortress that blocks almost the entire valley and that was once the intention. The castle is one of many examples of the architecture of Vauban, the fortresses. In this case, the existing castle was converted into a fortress. It is part of the line of defense, including the ancient city of Briançon and the fort of Mont-Dauphin. A little walk brings me to the castle, which is now closed at the end of June, no problem I am more interested in small plants and other silly things, such as a so-called historic bench in the descent. Nice thing about that bank is that it says when it was installed, restored or repaired. That was the last time in May 2010, so just happened, but it could have been more than an ugly shelf as a backrest. Continue to the last col on the border with Italy, Col Agnel thick 2700 meters high. At the beginning of the ascent I stop to greet a 'demoiselle coiffée'. A geological curiosity, soft rock that still stands the test of time by the harder rock, which lies like a hat on top of it. Molines and fortified church In Molines there is a curious fortified church to admire, everything here, in this rough landscape, apparently had to have both a material and a spiritual function. The cemetery with screaming plastic flowers is in stark contrast to the surroundings and is therefore so special. Only one grave was a bit wilder, a firm claw stood there rude to grow and bloom, probably with its roots down to 'grand mère' her belly. I'd like to lie dead like that.

We continue through the villages Molines and Pontgillarde, the streets just wide enough for my Hymer. A little past Pontgillarde I stop another at refuge Mam'a to have a coffee. Here I have spent the night before and in the morning we even saw a wolf hunting marmots. Now no marmot nor wolf to see. Yet it is true that there are wolves in this area, apparently coming from Italy. Wolves who cause controversy every year. Col Agnel

Col Agnel

Approaching Col Agnel 2744 meters high, dazzling white snow landscape shimmering towards me. The col was still 'ouvert' was indicated below. And he is, between walls of snow, I ride triumphantly like Napoleon, over the hill. Across Italia, a black tortuous ribbon in a white landscape shows me the way. At the foot of the climb, my medieval village of Chianale awaits, where I want to try to overcome mountains and snow on foot the next few days.

Just before the col there is a large gite-refuge for the people without motorhome. From there you can walk to Col Vieux and descend to lac Foréant or even further to lac Egorgéou. From the refuge or from the hill you can also climb the Pain de Sucre, a real top and do for an average hiker. Right now he really looks like a sugar loaf and possibly a little harder to get on it. We're going to try that again in a few days.

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