Fixing a running toilet is a reasonably simple DIY project; however, many novices may have difficulty dismantling and reassembling the bathroom, which is why this project is best suited to those with some plumbing knowledge. A running toilet is usually caused by problems with three significant components inside the tank. The overflow tube is the first portion, and it's meant to keep the toilet tank from overflowing. The second problematic component is the flush valve, which is responsible for discharging the water within the tank when the toilet is flushed. The fill valve is the third component that might be causing the toilet to run.

If any parts of the toilet need to be replaced during this repair, choose suitable parts to prevent causing more problems. New components are inexpensive and can save you money on water costs in the future if the toilet stops running.

Acknowledge the following tips to stop your toilet from running-

Adjust The Float Rod

You'll need to adjust the float rod or float cup to reduce the water level within the toilet tank. The horizontal rod stretching from the fill valve to the float ball is known as a float rod, while the afloat cup is a tiny cylinder that wraps around the fill valve and moves up and down with the water level.

The screw that connects the float rod or floats cup to the fill valve must be found. To reduce the water level, spin this screw about a quarter-turn counterclockwise with a screwdriver, a set of channel locks, or pliers. Adjust the settings until the water no longer flows into the overflow tube.

If the water continues to flow regardless of the float rod or float cup position, the problem is most likely with the fill valve. However, if the water stops flowing yet there isn't enough water in the tank to flush the toilet correctly, the overflow tube is probably too short for the bathroom.

Replace Flush Valve

If the overflow tube is too short or the water from the tank continues to leak into the toilet bowl, the complete flush valve will need to be replaced. Use the isolation valve on the water inlet line to turn off the water to the toilet, then flush the toilet to drain the tank. Before disconnecting the water supply to the tank using a set of channel locks, dry off any residual water with a cloth or towel.

Disconnect the flapper and remove the tank-to-bowl bolts to remove the old flush valve. To reach the toilet-to-bowl gasket and unscrew the flush valve nut, carefully pull the tank from the toilet. Consider enlisting the support of a partner to make the procedure go more smoothly.

Replace the fill valve

Though you'll still need a pair of channel locks and a cloth, towel, or sponge, replacing the fill valve isn't as complex as replacing the flush valve. Start by shutting off the water to the toilet with the isolation valve on the water inlet line, then flushing the toilet to drain the tank. Before disconnecting the water supply line with a set of channel locks, soak up any surplus water using a cloth, towel, or sponge to ensure the tank is dry.

To capture any surplus water, place the old fill valve in a sink or bucket. Adjust the height of the new fill valve to fit the toilet tank and desired water level, then screw the valve's threaded end into the tank's bottom. To form a watertight seal, secure it to the tank with a locking nut. Remove the old fill valve assembly from the tank by unscrewing the locking nut on the bottom of the tank and drawing it out. Turn the water back on after reconnecting the water supply. If the replacement is successful, the fill valve will start filling the toilet tank with water right away and stop when the float arm or float cup reaches the desired level. To avoid water damage, look for leaks near the base of the toilet tank.

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